Selasa, 24 Januari 2017
perbaikan TV Game
foto project januari 2017
kerusakan : motor tidak jalan
penanganan : perbaikan instalasi motor
Jumat, 13 Januari 2017
How to Fix Arcade Game Computer Freezes & Auto-Restarts: Pirates Hook & Go Fishing Repair Guide
When an arcade TV game constantly reboots or locks up, it leads to lost revenue, frustrated players, and potential software corruption.
Here is a step-by-step technical repair guide to diagnose and resolve computer stability issues in Pirates Hook, Go Fishing, and similar reel-spinning video redemption cabinets.
Common Symptoms & Root Causes
When a Pirates Hook arcade machine experiences system instability, technicians usually observe:
Mid-Game Freezing: The game picture freezes on-screen while audio loops or stops entirely.
Random Auto-Restarts: The machine reboots unexpectedly during heavy gameplay or during idle attractor modes.
Boot Loops: The internal PC attempts to turn on, cuts power, and immediately tries to restart.
The vast majority of these stability issues stem from power delivery degradation, dust accumulation, or thermal throttling on the motherboard and processor.
Step-by-Step Troubleshooting & Repair Procedure
Step 1: Power Supply Unit (PSU / ATX) Voltage Inspection
Unstable power output is the single most common cause of sudden PC restarts in arcade cabinets. Always inspect voltage levels under load using a digital multimeter.
Power Off & Connect Multimeter: Set your digital multimeter to DC Voltage mode.
Measure Core Rails at the ATX Connector:
+12V Rail (Yellow Wires): Powering the hard drive, cooling fans, and graphics card (VGA). Must read steady between +11.8V DC and +12.2V DC. A drop below 11.5V causes instant system restarts when the GPU loads up.
+5V Rail (Red Wires): Powering logic circuits and IO boards. Must read steady between +4.9V DC and +5.2V DC.
+3.3V Rail (Orange Wires): Powering RAM modules and chipset logic. Must read steady between +3.2V DC and +3.4V DC.
Action Required: If any voltage rail fluctuates severely or drops below standard thresholds under load, replace the ATX Power Supply Unit immediately with a high-efficiency replacement.
Step 2: Comprehensive CPU Unit & Hardware Cleaning
Arcade cabinets operate in high-foot-traffic environments where dust, lint, and debris accumulate rapidly inside the computer housing. Heavy dust insulation leads to short circuits and dangerous heat buildup.
Disconnect & Disassemble: Power down the cabinet completely, unplug the main power cord, and remove the PC chassis from the cabinet.
Clean Motherboard & Components: Use dry compressed air or an ESD-safe electric blower to clear dust from:
Motherboard PCB Surface: Removing conductive dust layer.
Dedicated Graphics Card (VGA): Dust out the heat sink fins and cooling fan assembly.
RAM Stick Contacts: Remove RAM sticks, clean the edge connectors with isopropyl alcohol (IPA), and re-seat them firmly.
System Chassis Fans: Ensure airflow intake and exhaust fans spin freely without bearing drag.
Step 3: CPU & VGA Thermal Compound (Thermal Paste) Replacement
Over years of continuous daily operation, factory thermal paste dries out, cracks, and loses its ability to transfer heat from the silicon chips to the heat sinks. This causes severe thermal throttling, forcing the CPU/GPU to freeze or reboot to protect itself from permanent heat damage.
Remove Heatsinks: Carefully detach the CPU cooler and the graphics card (VGA) heatsink assembly.
Clean Old Paste: Wipe away dried, crusty thermal compound from the processor die and heat sink contact plates using 99% isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free microfiber cloth.
Apply High-Performance Thermal Paste:
Place a small, pea-sized drop of premium non-conductive thermal compound on the center of the CPU heat spreader.
Apply a thin, even layer to the graphics card GPU die.
Reinstall Coolers: Secure the heat sink retention clips evenly in a diagonal pattern to ensure flat, firm pressure. Reconnect all cooling fan headers.
Repair Verification & Final Result
After completing the PSU check, deep cleaning, and thermal repasting, reinstall the PC unit back into the Pirates Hook cabinet:
Power On Test: Boot the cabinet into game mode and observe system post messages.
Burn-in Stress Test: Leave the machine running in attractor mode and play consecutive games to test reel-force feedback motors, sound triggers, and heavy graphical loads simultaneously.
Final Result: SYSTEM OK – Complete stability restored with smooth gameplay, zero random restarts, optimal thermal performance, and stable voltage rails.
Technical Maintenance Checklist for Arcade Video Games
| Component | Inspection Task | Threshold / Standard |
| ATX PSU (+12V Yellow) | Measure DC output during active gameplay | $11.8\text{ V} - 12.2\text{ V}$ |
| ATX PSU (+5V Red) | Measure DC logic power output | $4.9\text{ V} - 5.2\text{ V}$ |
| CPU / VGA Thermal Paste | Replace degraded compound | Change every 12–18 months |
| Cooling Fans & Airflow | Clean dust accumulation and check fan rotation | Zero obstruction / free spin |
Specialized Arcade Technical Support & Fleet Services
Need replacement PC hardware, custom game PCB repair, or technical inspections for your family entertainment center? Our engineering team provides professional technical assistance, diagnostic services, and risk mitigation support to keep your venue's equipment operating at peak profitability.
Contact our technical team today for expert arcade repair solutions!
Kamis, 05 Januari 2017
troubleshoot waterwar
troubleshoot go fishing
![]() |
| go fishing |
"Pudding Cup" Kiddy Ride Troubleshooting Guide: How to Fix a Non-Rotating Main Motor
In terms of core operation and underlying mechanical design, the Pudding Cup operates similarly to traditional carousels. However, what sets it apart is its modern, simplified, and technician-friendly body casing. Its modular structure allows for fast assembly and disassembly, making routine maintenance, inspection, and field repairs significantly quicker and more efficient.
Despite its durable construction, technical issues can arise over time. The most common problem encountered by technicians is the main drive motor failing to run or rotate.
Below is a structured, step-by-step troubleshooting guide to diagnose and repair the issue effectively.
Step-by-Step System Inspection & Repair Procedure
Step 1: Test Coin Slot & Timer Unit Functionality
Before opening the machine's casing, begin by testing the initial input control system:
Insert a coin or token into the coin slot.
Check whether the coin slot accepts the token properly and whether the timer unit begins its countdown sequence (confirming input signal registration).
Diagnosis: If the coin is accepted and the timer operates normally but the ride remains stationary, the issue is isolated to the main power lines or the motor drive module.
Step 2: Disassemble the Main Body Casing
If the coin slot and timer unit pass inspection:
Safety First: Disconnect the main power source to ensure technician safety.
Remove the fastening bolts on the Pudding Cup body panels. The accessible modular casing allows you to expose the motor compartment without disturbing the main mechanical drive assembly.
Step 3: Check Motor Voltage Supply & Perform Direct Bypass Test
Use a digital multimeter (AVO meter) to measure the power fed to the drive motor:
Voltage Check: Measure the incoming voltage to the motor terminals. Ensure it reads approximately 220 VAC.
Direct Motor Bypass Test: If 220 VAC is present, disconnect the motor wires from the timer output relay. Connect a direct 220 VAC power line directly to the motor terminal leads (bypassing the timer system).
Diagnosis: If the motor remains completely unresponsive during the direct bypass test, the fault lies within the motor unit itself—not in the timer module or body wiring harness.
Step 4: Inspect Internal Motor Components
Open the motor cover to inspect the following internal components:
Stator Coil / Windings: Check for signs of burnt copper wire or acrid electrical smells.
Platinum Contacts / Centrifugal Switch: Ensure contact points are clean, free of corrosion/carbon buildup, and opening/closing smoothly.
Motor Capacitor (Elco): Inspect the starting/running capacitor physically. Look for signs of bulging, leaking dielectric fluid, or test its microfarad ($\mu\text{F}$) value using a multimeter.
Step 5: Replace Damaged Components (Capacitor / Elco)
Based on field diagnostic data, a non-rotating motor is most commonly caused by a dry, weakened, or short-circuited motor capacitor.
Safely discharge and disconnect the failed capacitor.
Replace it with a new capacitor matching the exact microfarad ($\mu\text{F}$) and operating voltage ($\text{V}$) ratings specified by the manufacturer.
Step 6: Functional Testing & Reassembly
Before reinstalling the exterior body panels, perform a final operational check:
Power on the machine and run a test drive for several full rotation cycles without a load.
Verify smooth motor operation, normal noise levels, and proper synchronization between the timer unit and coin slot.
Once verified, reinstall the Pudding Cup body casing and secure all decorative accessories tightly.
Technical Diagnostic Quick Reference Table
| Checkpoint | Expected Standard | Fault Symptom | Recommended Action |
| Coin Slot & Timer | Triggers countdown | Display inactive / Token rejected | Check 12V DC input / Replace coin selector |
| Power Supply | 220 VAC at terminals | 0 VAC / Unstable voltage | Check main fuse / Timer relay output |
| Motor Capacitor | Rated microfarad ($\mu\text{F}$) | Bulging, leaking, 0 $\mu\text{F}$ | Replace with identical rated capacitor |
| Motor Windings | Resistance within spec | Burnt smell / Open circuit | Rewind stator coil or replace motor assembly |
Summary
The modular chassis design of the Pudding Cup Kiddy Ride makes on-site technical troubleshooting straightforward and efficient. By executing a systematic diagnostic flow—starting with input verification, moving to a direct 220 VAC bypass, and replacing failed components like the motor capacitor—operators can minimize ride downtime and return the equipment to peak revenue-generating condition.
troubleshoot KR bintang
troubleshoot toy story
Troubleshooting Guide: Advanced Repair for Slam A Winner Ticket Redemption Games
Because of its high-throughput mechanical action and continuous coin drops, several common input and motor drive issues can occur during daily operation. Below, we break down an advanced circuit-level troubleshooting case study.
Common Symptoms & Multi-System Faults
In a typical failure scenario on Slam A Winner, you might encounter multiple issues happening simultaneously:
Coin Slot Malfunction: Inserted coins drop through successfully, but the game fails to credit or start play.
Turn Table / Score Plate Stuttering: The rotating score disk stutters, moves unevenly, or hesitates during rotation.
Ball Elevator Vanbelt Stuttering: The motorized belt (vanbelt) responsible for raising balls to the drop mechanism runs roughly, stutters, or stops unexpectedly.
Failure Analysis: Why Do Multiple Input Issues Happen Together?
When distinct input devices—such as the coin switch, turn table optical sensor, and ball elevator limit switches—fail at the exact same time, it is rarely a failure of individual mechanical sensors.
Instead, this points directly to a signal processing failure where the input signals are not being processed by the main CPU board.
Step-by-Step Diagnostic & Repair Process
Step 1: Wiring & Continuity Check
Start with standard hardware diagnostics before moving to board-level repairs:
Inspect the harness connectors running from the coin acceptor, turn table sensor, and elevator switches to the mainboard.
Check wire continuity using a digital multimeter to confirm there are no broken leads, cold solder joints, or corroded pins.
Diagnostic result: Wiring intact and OK.
Step 2: Mainboard (PCB) & Schematic Inspection
Refer to the official Slam A Winner manual/wiring diagram to trace the signal routes:
Trace the input line for the Coin Acceptor.
Trace the signal line for the Turn Table Optical Sensor.
Trace the trigger line for the Ball Elevator Vanbelt Switch.
Observation: All three input lines route directly into an on-board logic buffer chip: the 74HC245 TTL IC.
Understanding the 74HC245 Logic IC in Arcade PCBs
What is a 74HC245 IC?
The 74HC245 is an 8-bit octal bus transceiver featuring 3-state non-inverting outputs. In arcade machine PCBs, it acts as an input buffer and line driver.
Primary Function: It sits between external components (sensors, switches, coin mechanisms) and the sensitive Central Processing Unit (CPU). It isolates, cleans, and passes digital signals safely to the CPU bus.
Why It Fails: Being directly exposed to external input wiring makes it vulnerable to static electricity (ESD), voltage spikes from failing motors, or coin-jam shorts. When the 74HC245 fails, the CPU becomes "blind" to external inputs—resulting in uncredited coins and unresponsive optical/mechanical sensors.
The Fix: Replacing the 74HC245 Buffer Chip
Power Down & Discharge: Turn off the arcade cabinet and safely disconnect the mainboard from power.
Desolder the Defective IC: Using a soldering iron and desoldering pump or wick, carefully remove the faulty 74HC245 IC from the board to avoid damaging the PCB traces.
Install an IC Socket (Recommended): Solder an 20-pin DIP socket onto the PCB. This makes future replacements quick and tool-free.
Insert New IC: Insert a fresh 74HC245 (or 74HCT245) integrated circuit into the socket, making sure the pin-1 notch orientation matches the silk-screen marking.
Reinstall & Test: Reconnect the mainboard to the machine and power on.
Result & Conclusion
After replacing the 74HC245 logic IC, input signal transmission from the coin acceptor, turn table sensor, and elevator switch is restored. The CPU processes all commands properly, eliminating motor stuttering and coin recognition failures—getting your Slam A Winner machine back online and generating revenue!





























