Kamis, 13 April 2017
In the Police Action redemption game, the playfield features an endless conveyor-style illustrated road carpet that continuously moves beneath the miniature patrol car. To synchronize game cycles, score resets, and motor runtime, the main CPU relies on a Carpet Indexing IR Sensor that reads a dedicated indexing hole punched into the border of the carpet track.
When the carpet track keeps spinning endlessly without starting or ending a game cycle, the CPU has failed to detect the track's Home / Index Reference Point.
1. How the Carpet Indexing System Works
Plaintext
[Motorized Conveyor Roller] ──> [Rotates Illustrated Carpet Track]
│
▼
[Indexing Hole Punched in Track Edge Passes Through]
│
▼
┌─────────────────────────────────┴─────────────────────────────────┐
│ [Carpet Home IR Sensor (Photo-Interrupter)] │
│ │
│ [IR Emitter LED] ─── (Invisible Beam) ───> [Photodiode Receiver]│
└─────────────────────────────────┬─────────────────────────────────┘
│
▼
[Index Signal Pulse Sent to CPU]
Continuous Rotation: The drive motor turns the conveyor roller, advancing the printed road carpet.
Optical Detection: As the carpet completes a rotation, a pre-punched physical hole on the edge of the carpet passes through a U-shaped IR sensor.
Pulse Trigger: The IR beam momentarily passes through the hole, triggering an electrical index pulse ($+5\text{V} \rightarrow 0\text{V}$) to the main CPU, confirming track alignment and cycle completion.
Fault Condition (Endless Spinning): If the sensor fails to detect the hole within a set time window, the CPU keeps the motor running indefinitely while searching for the missing home signal.
2. Common Root Causes
Carpet Track Misalignment (Off-Track): Due to tension imbalance across the conveyor rollers, the carpet track shifts left or right over time. As a result, the physical indexing hole passes outside the IR sensor's optical gap.
Dirty or Blocked Index Sensor: Dust, rubber belt fragments, or carpet lint cover the IR transmitter LED or photodiode receiver, preventing beam detection even when the hole aligns.
Damaged or Torn Indexing Hole: If the punched hole becomes elongated, torn, or covered by adhesive tape, light cannot pass cleanly through it.
Defective Index IR Sensor PCB: Failed photodiode, open current-limiting resistor, or damaged wiring harness to the mainboard.
3. Step-by-Step Adjustment & Repair Procedure
Quick Reference Diagnostic Matrix
| Symptom | Primary Cause | Action / Resolution |
| Track spins endlessly without stopping | Hole passing outside sensor path | Re-center carpet track on rollers; align hole to sensor slot. |
| Track stutters or stops at wrong location | Dirty optical lens or torn hole | Clean sensor with IPA; repair torn hole edge or punch clean new index hole. |
| Track doesn't spin at all | Blown drive motor fuse or belt snap | Check motor driver voltage ($+12\text{V}/+24\text{V}$) and inspect drive belt. |
Error code on display (e.g., Err-Trk) | Index signal missing / Sensor dead | Verify signal toggling with multimeter; replace IR sensor PCB. |
Senin, 27 Maret 2017
Sabtu, 18 Maret 2017
Sabtu, 04 Maret 2017
Beyond smooth mechanical operations, visual appeal is one of the most vital factors in driving revenue for indoor arcades and entertainment centers. On arcade games like Cat & Mice, accessory lights and cabinet illumination serve as primary visual hooks—enhancing aesthetics, creating an exciting atmosphere, and drawing customers to the machine.
However, performing lighting maintenance on imported or legacy arcade cabinets often presents a unique electrical challenge for technicians in regions operating on standard 220V power grids (such as Indonesia and parts of Asia/Europe).
The Voltage Compatibility Problem: 120V vs. 220V Grids
Many classic or imported arcade cabinets are originally built to North American/Japanese electrical standards, operating on 120V power. Consequently, their built-in accessory lighting fixtures are specified for 120V halogen bulbs.
When these lamps burn out, sourcing exact 120V replacement bulbs in a local 220V marketplace or local electronics supply store becomes extremely difficult, costly, and inefficient for daily operational maintenance.
The Solution: Retrofitting & Modifying Cabinet Illumination
Fortunately, technicians do not need to hunt down rare 120V halogen bulbs or install expensive step-down transformers just for cabinet lighting. The issue can be easily resolved by modifying the lighting socket and circuit to accept readily available, modern illumination alternatives.
1. Retrofitting to Standard 220V Bulbs
How it works: Re-wire or replace the light socket to connect directly to the cabinet’s main incoming 220V AC power line (before internal step-down transformers).
Advantage: Replacement bulbs can be purchased instantly at any local hardware or electrical supply shop.
2. Converting to a Low-Voltage 12V System
How it works: Tap into the arcade machine’s internal 12V DC power supply (which feeds the game logic boards/coin mechanisms) or install a compact, dedicated 220V-to-12V DC LED driver.
Advantage: Operating on 12V DC provides significant safety advantages for arcade operators, reduces thermal output inside the cabinet, and offers long-term reliability.
Recommended Bulb Upgrades: Halogen vs. LED
While you can technically replace old fixtures with standard 220V halogen bulbs, upgrading to LED lighting (whether 220V AC or 12V DC) is strongly recommended for arcade environments.
+------------------+-------------------------------+-----------------------------------+
| Feature | Standard Halogen Bulbs | Modern Energy-Efficient LEDs |
+------------------+-------------------------------+-----------------------------------+
| Availability | Moderate | Extremely High (Local/Online) |
| Power Draw | High (Generates Heat) | Ultra-Low (Energy Efficient) |
| Heat Emission | High (Can damage plastic) | Very Low (Safe for acrylics) |
| Lifespan | Short (~1,000 - 2,000 hours) | Long (~25,000 - 50,000+ hours) |
| Color Options | Warm Yellow Only | RGB / Cool White / Warm White |
+------------------+-------------------------------+-----------------------------------+
Step-by-Step Retrofitting Procedure for "Cat & Mice"
Step 1: Safety Precautions & Circuit Identification
Turn off the main power switch and completely disconnect the "Cat & Mice" machine from the wall outlet.
Open the marquee or display panel to access the target accessory lights.
Trace the existing light fixture wires to determine whether they originate from a 120V transformer tap or an auxiliary power strip.
Step 2: Socket & Wiring Modification
For 220V Conversion: Disconnect the original 120V power feed. Route new wiring from the socket directly to the primary 220V input side of the main power harness (after the main power switch and fuse). Replace the existing socket with a standard 220V-compatible fitting (e.g., E27, E14, or GU10).
For 12V LED Strip/Bulb Conversion: Connect the new 12V LED fixture to the internal 12V DC switching power supply terminals, observing correct polarity (+12V Red, GND Black).
Step 3: Bulb Installation & Heat Clearance Check
Install the new 220V or 12V LED bulbs/strips.
Ensure the new light source does not physically press against plastic bezels, marquee graphics, or internal game sensors.
Step 4: Testing & Visual Verification
Re-connect main power to the cabinet and toggle the power switch on.
Verify that the new lighting turns on instantly without flickering or tripping circuit breakers.
Observe color brightness and distribution to ensure the "Cat & Mice" game cabinet looks vibrant, eye-catching, and welcoming to arcade visitors.
Summary
Modifying legacy 120V halogen accessory lights on imported arcade machines like Cat & Mice to 220V or 12V LED systems eliminates the headache of sourcing rare replacement parts. By transitioning to locally available LED bulbs, arcade operators reduce energy consumption, minimize cabinet heat, cut downtime, and ensure their games remain visually stunning for players.
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